Monte Roraima

So I was watching this show last night about a group of scientists that recently were assembled and sent to explore Monte Roraima in Venezuela. For those not familiar with random plateau's in Venezuela, Monte Roraima is one of the least explored places on earth. This table-top mountain, or tepuis, is thought to be the oldest mountain on earth having formed when Africa and South America split apart. Monte Roraima is unique in that it is nearly 9,300 feet tall and is almost inaccessible due to sheer cliffs on all sides. This is the point in this blog post where you all begin to drift as I write about random mountains in Venezuela.... Here's why this place, and this expedition, are fascinating to me: Monte Roraima's unique set of circumstances, and inaccessibility, have long made it a candidate for housing unknown, or even long extinct creatures. The thought here is that when this landscape rose from the ground, it's eco-system was essentially frozen in time, and has not been touched since. This place was what originally inspired Arthur Conan Doyle to write The Lost World in 1912 (the inspiration for Jurassic Park and King Kong).

So this random group of scientists set out to explore this place. There is this one guy who is a cryptozoologist. Yep, crypto as in hidden/secret, and zoologist as in animals. This guy was a "specialist" in lost/mythical or unknown-to-science animals. He basically walked around waiting for a pterodactyl to come flying down and eat him (local Indians talk about this species as one of many still thought to reside on the mountain) the whole episode. He was joined by a herpetologist, a couple of cave specialists, a random biologist, and a specialist in tarantulas. Long story short, they find a bunch of new creatures, but no dinosaurs or giant mammals.

I mention all of this because something fascinated me during this show. I began to notice that no matter how remote a tribe, no matter how remote a location, even those on opposite ends of the earth with no contact whatsoever with one another, every single place and tribe have stories of the same type of creature: An ape man. In the Himalayas, it's called the Yeti. In North America, it's been long referred to as (even Native American mythology tells of it) Bigfoot or Sasquatch. In Australia the Yowie, in Central America the Dwendi. In this area of South America, I can't remember what the local tribe was calling it, but essentially it meant "demon-ape." I'm not saying I am going to start believing in Big Foot, but there is something to be said for every ancient culture telling of literally the same creature: A giant bipedal ape/man thing. It's not even that bizarre really. After all, there was a creature that basically was this exact specimen called Giganthopithicus that lived perhaps as recently as 3,000 years ago in SE Asia. Who is to say something similar didn't live elsewhere, and even recently? So my question today is if anyone out there believes in Bigfoot? Read more...

To Go or Not to Go, That is the Question

The more I get to understanding people's travel psyche, the more I begin to realize something: People are nervous about visiting most places. It's not uncommon for me to hear, "I won't travel there, it's too dangerous" many times a week in reference to places no where near the State Department's Advisory List. While most of the time I think their concern is off-base, the real question is, as travelers, what do we do with places like Thailand, India, Myanmar and Greece? We've all seen these countries in the news of late for various reasons and while not on Advisory Lists, instances of unrest in these destinations often creates an over-reaction from the general public.

So the real questions are:
Where should we be worried about traveling?
Where shouldn't we worry?
When do people need to just relax, put aside their anxiety, and just go?


Let me start with the obvious: Any destination engaged in some sort of international, civil, or insurgent-led war should be avoided. I think we can all agree that places like Iraq, Afghanistan and to some extent Pakistan are off-limits. Add to this the handful of countries that are so incredibly de-stabilized or lawless that one would be risking more than simply their belongings by traveling there, and we should add places like Somalia, Sudan, DRC, Zimbabwe, and largely Palestine. But what then?

One of my pet peeves is that if you watch or read the news, you'd think that every place on this planet is dangerous; anything international should be avoided:

Don't travel to Thailand, there are people that are protesting the government.
Don't go to London, they had those bombings,
Don't see the Louvre, the French hate us.
Avoid South America, they have all of those drug cartels.
Don't see China, it's near that crazy guy in North Korea.
Watch out for Peru, I saw that story about how Alpaca's will spit at you.
Definitely avoid Egypt, there are terrorists everywhere.
Steer clear of Southern Italy... all of those mobsters.
Don't go near the Mideast, Arabs hate us and will kidnap Westerners.
SE Asia is lawless. I heard that if you go most places there, you'll likely wake up in a bathtub without your organs.
Russia is crazy, after the collapse they lost all of their nuclear weapons, and they could be detonated at any time.
Never Indonesia; a tidal wave will sweep me away.
Nor Turkey. Crazy earthquakes, none of those buildings are built like the Japanese, they'll fall on me.

Ugh. My advice: Relax. Take a deep breath. Look around you. Realize our country has it's own dangers. There will certainly be instances of unrest, crime, natural disaster and pockets of danger anywhere in this world one travels. But ask yourself: How many crime reports do you see on TV here each day? How many streets exist in this country that you wouldn't walk down past dark? How many earthquakes/tornados/hurricanes/floods hit our country every 12 months? Would you ever tell someone not to come to America because it's too dangerous?

Make sure you do your research, and just go! Aside from the few places listed above, the countries in this world are overwhelmingly safe. The people there are overwhelmingly sweet, hospitable, and just like you. Buy a good guide book to steer you clear of the wrong parts of the city, avoid war zones, and just relax and enjoy yourself. Read more...

1491 - A Book Review

I just finished reading 1491 - New Revelations of the Americas before Columbus by Charles C. Mann and wanted to take some time this week to review this robust and exhaustive study of the ancient Americas.

This review comes fittingly as today is Columbus Day; which as an aside, has to be the the most moronic and unhistorical holiday this country has. What really are we celebrating? Are we celebrating the year that a borderline traitorous European, certainly tyrannical, was the "first" to step foot on the Americas? And by "first" do we really mean "first wealthy, well-funded, European explorer"? As this book points out, the Americas were more populated, and in some ways advanced, than Europe of the same time period. Furthermore, to disregard Leif Ericson's (and probably countless others) landing here some 500 years earlier is questionable at best. But history needs a face, and being that Spain and Portugal ruled the world at the time, Christopher Columbus is that man.

But I digress, the book 1491, is phenomenal. In my eyes, Charles Mann provides one of the most exhaustive and well-documented studies of historical North and South America ever put to print. To capture the findings in this book in a single review would be near impossible, but to summarize I'll do my best. Mann's 1491 title serves facetiously as the account of the America's prior to European "discovery".

I was taught, as every other school child was, that the populating of this country was a direct result of individuals (likely of Asian-descent) crossing the Bering Strait some 12,000 years ago. In turn, these nomads gradually wandered as far south as Chile, gradually populating and creating pocket societies along the way. In turn, we're led to believe that the Americas (certainly North America) had a population of people existing mainly in small, nomadic bands; living sparsely on the land, and that, for all practical purposes, America was still a vast wilderness upon Columbus' "discovery". Further, Columbus "discovered" this sparsely populated, and very unsophisticated, land in 1492. Charles C. Mann makes abundantly clear that archaeologists and anthropologists in the last thirty years have proved nearly every aspect of those assumptions wrong (and in some cases, very, very wrong).

Here are a few random and ground-breaking discoveries outlined in detail throughout this book:
• In 1491 there were probably more people living in the Americas than in Europe (likely 10's of millions).
• At Olmec in 30 A.D., use of the zero has been discovered: An invention, widely described as the most important mathematical discovery ever made, which did not occur in Eurasia until 600 A.D.
• At the time of Columbus' landing, cities like Tenochtitlán (on Lake Texcoco, outside of present-day Mexico City), were far greater in population than any contemporary European city. Tenochtitlán, unlike any capital in Europe at that time, had running water, beautiful botanical gardens, and immaculately clean streets.
• The Spanish conquest and successful overthrow of empires in South America was likely due to the fact that the societies had been decimated by smallpox (introduced by Europeans and spread rapidly), in many cases up to 90% of the populations, allowing the conquistadorss to "win" so easily.
• The earliest cities in the Western Hemisphere were thriving before the Egyptians built the great pyramids.
• In many cases, the mathematical and scientific accomplishments of the Americas preceded those oft credited to European and Asian counterparts. These include many aspects of astronomy, the modern day calendar, farming, the wheel, plumbing, government and writing.
• The first paleo-Indian migration to the Americas could have occurred as early as 25,000-35,000 B.C. arriving in boats, not by foot.
• Large-scale pyramids, with surrounding societies, have been discovered in Peru preceding those built at the Great Pyramids of Giza by several hundred years.
• Pre-Columbian Indians in Mexico developed corn by a breeding process so sophisticated that the journal Science recently described it as “man’s first, and perhaps the greatest, feat of genetic engineering.”
• Native Americans transformed their land so completely that Europeans arrived in a hemisphere already massively “landscaped” by human beings. Read more...

Even the airport is amazing!

So i have officially arrived in Bhutan, probably the most picturesque place I have ever seen in my life. We had a bit of an early morning flight (we had to be up at 2:15) which some might still consider night....I know I do. But even the flight here was so well worth it. Air Druk, the national airline and the only flights in and out of Bhutan, is a quaint little airline with the happiest flight attendants i have ever seen. We were able to see Everest out the side window of the plane, which only slightly worried me when all of the passengers on the right side got out of their seats to lean over everyone on the left side. Asians clearly have no personal space issues :)

Our landing was really spectacular, we flew in between a valley where the hills were so close on either side we could basically see into people's windows. Everyone on the plane was silent, just taking in the beauty. Upon arriving in what I cannot describe as the airport as any thing other than a monastery. I have never smelled crisper, fresher more fragrant air. This place has a silence to it I cannot describe. I don't ever want to raise my voice above a whisper so as to not destroy the ambiance.

Today we are off on a bike ride to a dzong in the hills. Not too bad........ Read more...

Trinkets and Souvenirs

According to trusty Wikipedia, a "souvenir" is a memento or keepsake or object a traveler brings home for the memories associated with it. Fair enough I suppose. The definition listed above though is a bit trite in my opinion. After all, the summary makes it sounds like a random peach pit someone might choke on in Madrid, could fit the definition. We all know though, this isn't the case. Souvenir's tend to be those really lame things you can find in gift shops around the world: T-shirts, local "cultural" items, shot glasses etc etc. They are all of those things one brings home from a vacation and shows off to friends. Half the time, the "souvenir" could probably be flipped over to reveal a "Made in China" tag despite where you bought the thing... I mention this because I have developed a sort-of fascination over the years with the "souvenirs" foreign cultures think tourists will want to buy, the gullible people that purchase them, and the real gems that exist in these locations.

For instance, the Egyptians think that the golden ticket for tourist purchases is alabaster. Could be anything, just as long as it is alabaster, and made to look pretty old. Really, if it looks to be any sort of ancient trinket, people buy it. I must say too, the salesman in Egypt are way up the aggressive scale. You practically have to spray yourself with skunk odor to get these folks to leave you alone. I love their approach too:

Random tourist: How much for the alabaster pot?
Random gift-shop owner: $320! Original! Bery Old!
Random tourist: I'll give you $4 for it...
Random gift-shop owner: Make it $4.50...

And off someone walks with their "1000 year old alabaster pot". Everything is always "original" in foreign destinations as well. I was once in Luxor, and was taken to "the finest hand-made alabaster shop in the country" according to a guide. We were driven to a two-story factory in the middle of nowhere that had the alabaster on the second floor. The first floor was were it was all made "original". As we walked up there was a scene on the left side of the shop that I found hysterical. Five men in traditional clothing were sitting around holding all of the right tools with huge uncut pieces of alabaster. As we got out of the car, someone yelled to them and they quickly scrambled to start chipping away at the alabaster, drilling holes in it, one guy was even throwing water over it. The moment we walked inside, they all stopped and left their stations to resume whatever they were really there to do.

Anyhow, Egypt has it's alabaster, Jerusalem their wooden ornaments, Thailand it's suits, Guatemala their rugs and on and on. I say this to point out that there are in fact, great souvenirs from the places we visit that are original, do show local craftsmanship, and are one of a kind. A couple of pointers:

1. Anything found in the hotel, restaurant, or monument you are visiting is not unique.
2. When you go to a market, notice that 95% of the stalls sell the exact same things. Look for the one booth in the whole place that has different craft, and that's a good place to start.
3. Try to buy your souvenirs in the most back-alley, out of the way places you can find.
4. Art is usually a great purchase with loads of local influence and originality.
5. If you are a cruise-taker, any shop within a half mile of where the ship docks has a 500% mark-up on very standard goods. Read more...

Best Food Abroad

I love food. Like, really love food. Andrew Zimmern territory? Umm... maybe not that much. Can I be Gizmo, then Mogwai if I don't get my fill? Yes. Only the Gremlins midnight is more like my 9AM, Noon and 6PM feedings. Suffice to say, food equals good in my book. Naturally then, my travels invoke instant curiosity and excitement in me to seek out new and tasty cuisine.

I was talking today about my favorite culinary destinations in this world. After a bit of thought, I realized my two all-time favorites are Thailand and Spain. I'm curious to hear what other destinations people list amongst their favorites.

For me, Thailand is the surprise entry on my list. Not many people think of Thailand as a food mecca. And frankly, if you don't like spice, you probably won't ever list it as one of yours. That said, I can't get enough spicy food. In addition to the fact that Thailand has some of the freshest food dishes I've tasted, the balance of sweet, sour, salt, spiciness and texture are hard to beat. I love their noodles. I love their soups. I love their curries. I love the mix of influences - East and West - that build the dishes. Love, love, love.

And Spain? What can I say. The mere thought of tapas and sangria is enough to get my heart pumping. Calderos, grilled squid in olive oil & garlic, beef tenderloin & blue cheese, goat cheese baked in tomato sauce, perfect olives, paella, perfectly cooked meat, do I need to go on? It's also worth mentioning that any culture that sits down to frequent meals that surpass the two-hour mark, will always get high marks from me.

I can't write about food for too long, because I get hungry. So, I'm out for now but give us your thoughts. Read more...

Travel Secrets

Today's post may be a bit off-kilter, but I wanted to comment on a few things I've seen more and more of since joining the "travel community." Oh heck, let's just get to the point: There are some really annoying expectations people have about travel. Now before I put my foot in my mouth any further, I want to make the compulsory public service announcement that everyone (including me) has expectations from time to time about what a place ought to look like, how much it ought to cost etc. etc. that aren't quite on point. Fact is, often times travel reality is the opposite of what we expected. That said, there are some things the general public needs to know. As a side note, if you travel frequently, or have not been locked in a box for the last ten years, you can tune out now. For the unfortunate few that do not, or have been, read on:

1. You can no longer fly from LAX to Paris for $399. Yep, shocking, I know.
Oh, what's that?
"You did it in college?"
Well guess what? Ten years ago: gas was cheaper, our dollar was stronger, and supply greater.

2. You cannot stay on the beach in Thailand (specifically Phuket, Ko Phi Phi, Samui, Krabi or elsewhere) for $10/night. And no, there are no secret communities of backpackers that have occupied an otherwise unknown island where days are blissful, and everything is free.

3. Tokyo is insanely expensive. Yes, worse than New York. And no, there's nothing I can find for you under $200 in that city anywhere near the sections of the city you'd want to be near.
"But why?!"
"That's insane!?"
"It can't be true!"
Answer: It just is, yes it is, unfortunately it is.

4. If you are looking to get "off-the-beaten-path", steer clear of Europe.

5. The combination of 4-5 star, centrally located, and very very cheap rarely, if ever, exists.

6. In remote parts of this world, you cannot always just fly from place to place - you have to drive.

7. There are ATM's in foreign countries. I know, totally crazy. It's almost as if there are banks in countries other than our own.

8. You get what you pay for. Simple enough, right? If you want to spend $75 a night on a hotel abroad, don't expect much. Furthermore, don't write a review on Trip Advisor once you've stayed at that $75/night property that the valet was poor, breakfast incomplete, or room not very big.

9. Iceland is not covered in ice, and Greenland is not really green.

10. Cancun is dirty, gross, not very foreign, and chalked full of drunk college kids. It's not an ideal family vacation spot. Read more...

Dark Star Safari

Jessica inspired me the other day when she opened Pandora's box and wrote a book review on Lost on Planet China. The thing is, Jessica and I read a ton of travel-related books. In the last month, I've gobbled up two travel books, and two pseudo-travel books (micro-finance related... my new obsession). Anyhow, I thought I'd follow suit and record my thoughts on a book I just finished, Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Cape Town by Paul Theroux.

Theroux is a well-known American travel writer and novelist who has published many notable books including The Great Railway Bazaar, Riding the Iron Rooster and The Old Patagonian Express among others. He is a fascinating writer, one of the many items I will explain later.

Dark Start Safari: Overland from Cairo to Cape Town, as the second part of the title suggests, is Theroux's account of his voyage from Cairo, Egypt to Cape Town, South Africa. An undertaking of this much geography is impressive, made more so by the fact that Theroux did so alone, and entirely overland. For those of you not familiar, the term overland is the traveler's way of saying entirely by bus, car or train (non-air); a popular form of travel in Europe, but hardly ever in Africa (as it is borderline suicidal - a point made evidently clear throughout the novel). Theroux offers a unique perspective on this trip, as in addition to being a traveler, Theroux was both a Peace Corps volunteer and professor in various parts of the continent in the 1960's. His perspective on the landscape and cultures of the countries he visits is refreshingly accompanied by a historical perspective dating back 40 years on the progress (or frankly, lack there of) in Africa.

Theroux's Safari is chalked full of the standard musings one would expect on such a journey: sites, sounds, people, near misses, food, adventure, history, poverty, deplorable conditions and politics. The story is a fantastic read on these accounts alone. However I was really impressed with this novel for its candid view of Africa; the miserable state of it's social/political/economic legacy, and a fascinating look at Theroux's opinion of the "charity" and "aid" that's been dumped into the continent over the last 40 years. This insight was particularly fascinating to me. The over-arching theme of course, and one I agree with entirely, is how on earth has so much money (a number well into the trillions of dollars) been dumped into Africa only to see nearly every major category of distress get WORSE over the years? How is this an acceptable situation? How has Africa become, in many opinions, the case study for why present-day "charity" is totally a broken system? Have people gone there with good intentions? Lives been changed? Sure, but study the facts: 10's of trillions gone, conditions worse. It's almost unbelievable. It's a Hollywood script: Corruption abound, bogus charity, money never reaching its source, kickbacks, despots and tyrants, "charity" workers in Land Rovers, and as bad as it sounds, the World Bank.

In addition to Theroux's candor, he writes with a certain poetic feel that is somehow reminiscent of a younger Henry David Thoreau. While Thoreau was magical at describing the complexities of nature and its relation to the human condition, Dark Star Safari's Theroux seems to tap into the complexities of Africa and its relation to not only humanity, but charity and strife. I mention this as there is, in my opinion, a void in contemporary travel writing of "good" writing. It seems that 75% of travel books published are your neighbors next store who have gone somewhere foreign and captured their accounts. Few classically trained (award winning) novelists exist in the travel writing market.

My only complaint with this novel is that Mr. Theroux frequently takes a "better than thou" approach to his critique and observation (often judgement) of both Africans, fellow travelers, and those there to "help". While he did teach in the continent, has some contacts there, and is in his elder years, he should not be so quick to assume his superiority. After all, he too, at the end of the day is just a traveler as well. Overall however, this is a fascinating read, and one I'd highly recommend to anyone wishing to be further educated on the continent, its politics, and history. Read more...

Tikal, Guatemala

I just returned from a couple of weeks in Central America (Guatemala and Belize) and will be posting various things in the coming weeks about the trip. I thought I'd start with the Tikal ruins as, for anyone that has been there will know, it was a breathtaking experience.

Tikal is located in the Peten region of Northern Guatemala, deep in the humid jungles of Tikal National Park. My wife and I spent an entire day there with our guide, Hannibal, who was born and raised in a small village bordering the Park. His wealth of knowledge of the area was amazing. As a brief synopsis, Tikal was the capital of the vast Mayan Empire peaking in about 200 AD (the site has been dated as far back as 400 BC in some areas). The Mayans were a highly sophisticated group of the Classic Period with an empire stretching throughout present-day Mexico (Chiapas, Tabasco, and the Yucatán Peninsula states of Quintana Roo, Campeche and Yucatán), and the northern Central American region, including Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador and Honduras. As to an idea of their size, the Mayan empires in and around Tikal are said to have been populated with over a million and a half people (larger than present-day Barcelona, or San Diego). The Mayans are known for having the only fully developed written language of the pre-Columbian Americas, incredible art, monumental architecture rivaling that of the Egyptians, and sophisticated mathematical and astronomical systems. Tikal has thousands of structures, most still buried beneath trees, foliage and 1500 years of jungle growth. Tikal was long known to have existed by locals, but was "discovered" by Ambrosio Tut in 1848 who was roaming the jungles in search of chiclero - or gum, from the local gum tree.

Having spent the day there, I was most impressed with the area known as the Acropolis, and all six temples (I-VI). The six step-pyramids in Tikal are enormous pyramids, some exceeding 200 feet. Many of these pyramids can be climbed; the most memorable being temple five which must be ascended by a small, vertical, wooden ladder over 18 stories high. If you're afraid of heights, there's no chance you should try this. At the top of the pyramid you can see out miles over the jungle canopy and can spot three of the other pyramids peeking above the tree line. The view is unbelievable.

Being the amateur archaeologist that I am, I was most intrigued by the nearly 23 square mile residential area that is yet to be excavated. I'd love to be a part of the team that someday can dive into the ruins and everyday lives of the many that lived in Tikal, and built it's mighty empire.

Finally, I was more than impressed with the extent to which the Guatemalan government has gone to protect and conserve the site. Truly, the Cambodian, Egyptian and Jordanian governments (among others) would serve themselves well to take a page out of the Guatemalans book to do MUCH more to preserve their respective sites. Sure, this site is designated a UNESCO site, but for those of you that read my post on the issue, you know that this does little to no good in my eyes and much more is necessary when it comes to conservation/preservation of these magical ruins. The Guatemalan's have gone further designating the 222 square mile Tikal National Park protected land. In addition, there are adequate signs and safety measures in the Park. The government has gone so far as recording (through two checkpoints at the entrance to Tikal) every driver's speed through the Park leading up to the site to prevent drivers from speeding, and putting the native animals (jaguars included) in jeopardy of being hit. Fantastic stuff. Read more...

The Joys of Culinary Travel

I do not really love to cook. I love to bake, but then I have cakes, cookies and other tempting treats sitting around my house just begging to be eaten.....so I try to stay away from that as well. I guess that is why I find it so fascinating that culinary travel is on the rise. According to the International Culinary Tourism Association, culinary tourism is defined as "the development and promotion of prepared food/drink as an attraction for visitors." This definition seems to me the very reason why people go to Italy, but maybe that is simply because i don't have a desire to cook on vacation, but I do love to eat on vacation! Culinary travelers fall into two categories, those who go to cook and those who go to eat. I am definitely in category number 1.

Cultural understanding is intertwined with cooking, it provides insight into a region's community and history. There are a number of culinary tours out their to suit everyone's palate. French and Italian tours still remain the most popular, but pan-Asian, Middle Eastern and Central and South American cooking tours are gaining in popularity. One of the best ways is to find a tour which allows you to travel to a number of different cities, using local produce and cooking regional dishes. The key to a great trip is a great operator. Find tours with a cap on the amount of people allowed to attend, that way you will receive more one-on-one attention and guidance. Also, be sure to find out how intensive these programs are. Are you the type of traveller who wants to cook with time left over to visit other sites in the area? Or are you hard-core cooking master who wants to relish all the time they have with foreign chefs?

Whatever your preference, you will return with some great experiences and worthwhile cooking tips! Read more...

The Terracotta Warriors

As you all are aware by now, I'm an archaeology nut. I love it. Wanted to be an archaeologist as a kid, almost went back to school for it three years ago, and to this day can be found scouring the desert for artifacts on my vacations home. And per my previous post, I plan on visiting most of the major sites around the world in my lifetime. So naturally, the things that excite me most in this world are stories of new discoveries, or of those discoveries left to be found. I thought I'd blog today about one of my favorite archaeological sites; not necessarily for what has been found thus far, but for what is left to be found.

In 1974 near Xi'an, Shaanxi province, China, farmers uncovered one of the most incredible sites ever found: The Terracotta Warriors. I could write an untold number of blog entries on the find (and if you want to read about it in depth, please click here) but in brief the first Emperor of China, Shi Huang Di, commissioned for a tomb to be built for himself that was of a scope larger than anything ever undertaken. Over 700,000 workers built a tomb for Shi Huang Di that included palaces, towers, homes, over 100 rivers of flowing mercury (thought at the time to prolong life), possibly the largest collection of jewels and relics of all time within the tomb, and over 8,000 life size terracotta warriors (not one alike), horses, chariots, and strongmen guarding the entrance. These terracota warriors are one of China's most visited attractions each year.

These existing discoveries are an amazing thing to visit, but what has yet to be discovered would surely be larger: Shi Huang Di's tomb. To date, no entrance to this tomb has been found. Much of what we know about it's contents come from the writings of an ancient historian, Sima Qian. He describes the lavish burial with priceless treasures quite meticulously. The archaeologists on this site largely know where to find the tomb as there is an unnatural 76 meter tall and 350 square meter wide earthen mound behind the warriors. Further, through remote sensing technology, the Chinese have found evidence within the mound of a 30 meter high building buried above the main portion of the tomb. It appears to have four large stair-like walls. Although there is evidence of a fire that struck this site in antiquity (likely started by a General five years after the Emperors burial), the contents of the tomb are largely believed to be intact. It would surely be one of the largest caches of history and treasure ever uncovered. Along with Atlantis, it could be argued that this is the single largest undiscovered treasure troves known from history. Wouldn't you love to be the one that first discovers the entrance? Read more...

Vegas!

As I just returned form a sleepless weekend in Vegas, I thought I'd blog about some of the hotels/casinos to be found there with my thoughts on some of the best and worst the city has to offer.


My favorites:
1. Bellagio: Love this place. Great pool, great tables, nicest leather chairs in Vegas, and fanciest buffet.
2. Palazzo: This is the new sister hotel to the Venetian just built in January. One word: Wow. It's clean, well done, enormous rooms, and for the price, you won't find something nicer anywhere. On top of that, their pool area is a lot of fun. It connects with Venetian's pool (and Tao Beach) and provides hours of entertainment.
3. Wynn: Very similar to the Bellagio in that their furnishings, shops, and overall ambiance is top notch. I haven't explored this hotel a ton, but from what I've seen it's definitely in my top three. Steve Wynn is constructing a similar hotel next store named Encore that is due in December.
4. The Mirage: I know this one doesn't really fit with the others, but I like the overall feel and what they've done with the floor space. Lot's of room, well taken care of, and plenty to do.
5. Imperial Palace: If you're looking for cheap eats and tables, head straight to the IP. Their champagne pit tables, and rocking impersonators are worth the trip.

My least favorite:
1. Circus Circus: How this dilapidated casino is still up and running, I'm not sure.
2. New York New York: Most overrated casino on the strip. Crowded, and cheap knock-offs everywhere... Such potential.
3. The Palms: The only things this place has going for it are the eateries Nine and Little Buddha, and Ghostbar. Other than those, you may as well tear the whole place down. For a newer property, the casino is small, the decor lame, and the poker room looks like someone converted an old broom closet. Disappointing.
4. Las Vegas Hilton: Nothing at all redeeming about this place. It's a million miles from everything, and thinks it's a fancy place (not even in the realm of any of the places that are). Table minimums are way too high, boring decor, and charging way too much for where it's situated. Read more...

Climbing Kilimanjaro

A dream of mine is to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. It's the tallest mountain in Africa at 19,340 feet (as a point of reference, base camp at Everest is about 17,700 feet), and the tallest free-standing mountain in the world. Unlike most major summits in the world, "Kili" requires little to no technical skills. Basically, you can walk up. Now, although you won't need to utilize crampons and rope on your ascent, you certainly need to train. Most training plans call for 4-5 months of progressively more strenuous hiking, some form of high altitude acclimatization, and/or weights and cardio work. The climb takes anywhere from 5-10 days and requires daily hiking of up to eight hours. In addition, there are steep Park fees, and you MUST be with a hired guide. It's illegal to try to ascend on your own. Kili has six different routes (seven if you count the Western Breach), all with their own advantages/disadvantages. I thought I'd post a summary of these routes, as well as some helpful tips for anyone considering this climb. If you'd like to read on in more detail on these routes (including level of difficulty and days required), please click here.

Route Summary:

Marangu Route: This is the easiest route (often referred to as the "Coca Cola" route), and the easiest route up the mountain; it is characterized by the different zones of vegetation. This route will also have (by far) the most people. Trekking takes about 5 days to descend.
Machame Route: This is the route for experienced trekkers; can also be quite crowded though. The route takes up to 6 days to descend.
Umbwe Route: This is a great route to follow if you are looking to climb the mountain and get an insane workout in the process. The route has a very steep slope, and goes straight to the Peak.
Mweka Route: This is the most straight route, and is used by descending parties on the Machame, Umbwe and Shira routes. Can also be quite crowded.
Shira route: This route ascends through Shira plateau from Londorossi Gate, and is the most fascinating and scenic route on Kili. When I climb this mountain, this is likely the route I will take. The route provides great views of the Great Rift Valley, Mt Meru and Longido. it involves a drive to high altitude on the first day.

Technical Routes: There are two more technical routes on the Western part of the mountain: Breach and Lemosho, requiring much more climbing expertise.
Western Breach Route: This is for experienced mountaineers. It is the shortest winding through Shire Plateau, the glaciers, and Kili's dormant volcanic crater, and takes one to two days to the top with several tough sections up steep scree and some rock scrambling.
Lemosho Route: This route is the same as the Breach Route; it has steep scree leads to Stella Point (half way between Uhuru Peak and Gillman’s Point), but this route passes through Shire Ridge, which allows a bit more acclimatization.

General Tips:
1. The longer you give yourself on a trip, the better. The real challenge on this mountain is getting acclimated so give your body as many days as possible to do so.
2. Find a good tour operator with porters, experienced guides, oxygen (if needed), and evacuation insurance.
3. Don't pay more than $3,000-$4,000. You'll see some companies trying to charge 7-10K. Don't believe the hype - they don't have anything or anyone that is better than the 30 companies that do it for 3-4K.
4. Don't pay less than $2,000. Some companies will offer cheap routes up the mountain. Can they get you up? Probably. But, do you really want to risk getting up quicker, with 65 other people, and not as highly trained/insured guides? Probably not.
5. Be prepared for extreme cold at the summit. Yes, you can climb in shorts and a t-shirt towards the bottom, but the summit can be below zero frequently.
6. Educate yourself on altitude sickness. This is a very real threat, and one you should be familiar with before you depart. Know the symptoms, and be able to recognize them should you begin to suffer. Read more...

In my own backyard...

I was reminded this last weekend that it is really easy to take for granted the places and sites we live in everyday when constantly looking abroad for the next "it" place. I spend much of my day trying to figure out when I'll climb Kilimanjaro, visit Bagan, or backpack through the Middle East again. As I drove home to Tucson, AZ last Thursday, I forgot what a beautiful landscape it becomes during the monsoons; as the sun sets over red tinted mountains, the mourning dove sings at sunrise, and that unmistakable smell of the desert after a short downpour.

There's probably no better example of overlooking what's right in front of you than this: I've never been to the Grand Canyon. Yes, I spent the first 18 years of my life in the Grand Canyon State, and I've never been there. In retrospect, a "vacation" always seemed to insinuate leaving the State or country. In turn, I never thought about visiting all of the amazing places the State had to offer as if it wouldn't really constitute having gone somewhere. Does anyone else do this? I must be mad.

So in an effort to begin to right-size my transgressions towards the great State of Arizona, I thought I'd give a shout out to several locations worth visiting if anyone will be passing through any time soon:

1. The Grand Canyon: It can't be listed among the seven natural wonders of the world alongside Everest, the Great Barrier Reef, and Victoria Falls without merit, right? Though, as stated above, I'm the last person to talk it up....

2. Kartchner Caverns: This one I can vouch for, and it's incredible. This cave is one of the few large cave complexes in the country that is unspoiled, and a living functioning cave. The cave is protected by the State, and apart of its own National Park. Tours of the "Big Room" are limited from October to April so as to allow the thousands of bats that reside there for part of the year, to do so in peace.

3. Canyon de Chelly: A miniature Grand Canyon with its own South and North rims, but the rock is even more red and picturesque. The Canyon is also home to some of the most spectacular Native American ruins in the country, within a landscape that is one of the longest continuously inhabited in North America.

4. Lake Powell: The Northern part of Arizona is home to an incredible area with over 2000 miles of shoreline, rosy sand beaches, and days upon days of canyons, blue water and ancient ruins.

5. Tombstone: In 1881, the likes of Doc Holliday, Virgil/Morgan/Wyatt Earp, Ike Clanton and others were a part of arguably the most famous gunfight ever: The shootout at the OK Corral. This site and the rest of the still original ghost-town can still be visited today. Need I say more?

6. Kitt Peak: For you astronomers out there, a little known fact is Tucson, AZ is home to Kitt Peak: The world's largest collection of optical telescopes, and some of the largest in the world. Read more...

My Ten Funniest Travel Stories

Every time I speak to someone coming back from a far off place, it's not long before we begin swapping stories about the hysterical situations we managed to get ourselves into. Now I'm sure there is some psycho-analysis behind my travel style lending itself to somewhat hysterical happenings, but friends, that's another story for another time. Let's concentrate. I want to hear stories from our readers about absurd, hysterical, or comical things they've seen/heard or done while abroad. And no request here at Pangaea goes without a quid pro quo, so to get started, here's my top ten list of weirdest or funniest things I've seen myself while abroad:

1. I once traveled around Norway in a yellow van full of 17 people. We're not talking about a bus here either folks; picture a standard size van, with enough body parts hanging out of the window to draw any stare within a square mile. This is not the end of the story though. My Dad was one of the unfortunate souls who was half in the van, half out. At a stoplight outside of Bislett Stadium in Oslo, a lunatic woman came from nowhere yelling God knows what in Norwegian. Upon reaching the van she grabbed hold of my Dad and spent what was likely the longest light of my Dad's life trying to pull him out the window. Ole, our only resident Norwegian, explained afterward that the woman was quite fond of my Dad's eyes. To this day, I've never seen a funnier look than my Dad's frantic face as he fought to stay inside that van.
2. Last time I was in Thailand with my buddy Coy, we arrived at a hotel and were told the rate for our room was $4 more than we had expected because the room, "included Bigfoot free of charge." Enough said, we'll take it.
3. I stayed in a hostel with a buddy of mine once and we were given a third roommate we later named "The Brazilian Stomper." He spent the entire night jumping from his top bunk onto the floor making the whole room rattle. After a minute or so passed, he'd climb back up into his bed and repeat the jump. This went on for hours.
4. I worked in Tokyo for several months, and loved to find the most bizarrely translated signs. One of my favorites was my trash can. Somehow "trash can" was mistranslated to read: "It's here. Let's Supreme Can!"
5. Along those same lines, while at a restaurant in Prague I saw a menu item (that wound up being a local river fish) that was translated to English as: "His wife in the garlic." Do you even need to ask if I ordered it or not?
6. While in Egypt we met a shop owner, who upon finding out my friends name was Dave, started yelling "Beckham!" Beckham!" He proceeded to close his store for us, sit us down on the floor, serve us tea and cigarettes (none of us smoke), and show us Roman artifacts unearthed on his Grandfather's farm. Classic.
7. There is a hostel in Interlaken, Switzerland that is named Funny Farm. I won't get into all of the reasons here, but suffice to say the name barely cracks the surface of how crazy this place really is. By way of example, the showers are located in the corner of a dance club on premises. Walking through strobe lights and dj's to get to the showers is bizarre. Having your fingernails and soap glowing under the black lights while showering is ever weirder.
8. In a random neighborhood in Tokyo on a morning run, I once made a run for it and hid in a tube slide thinking I saw a lion. Why wouldn't there be a lion in Tokyo? I was prepared to take kids out, push people aside.... It's every man for themselves when a lion is on the prowl in Roppongi. Made sense at the time.... Long story short, it was a freakishly large red dog shaved to look like a lion (mane, tail, you name it).
9. So out of sync from jet-lag, my friend and I went to bed at 4pm in Paris once. We woke in the morning, showered, and went for breakfast. After eating eggs, we noticed it seemed to be getting dark. My buddy asked a woman in front of a hostel, "Is it day or night?" Confused, she said, "night". We had slept two hours and thought a day had passed. Awesome.
10. Last time I flew to SE Asia, I brought Ambien for my buddy and I to sleep through the flight. We figured we'd take our Ambien with a beer to "cheers" the trip. Let's just say Ambien and a beer is not a good idea. We later found about a half hour of video footage on his camera with us rambling on about lasagna and bread (not served on the flight by the way) that neither of us remember in the least. Read more...

Travel Junkie

I think I might be a travel junkie. They say the first step is admitting it, so there you go, I'm addicted. In fact, I may have a problem. Hmm.... A travel junkie, huh? Yep. That's right, full-blown addiction here folks. I'm talking raging veins when I'm away from it, a tendency to not stop thinking about it, and it's certainly a vacuum for all things financial. Am I alone here?

The last trip I took out of the country was Thailand/Cambodia early last year and it seems like an eternity ago. As my next trip can't come soon enough, I typically fall into a predictable pattern of the next best thing: Being frustrated that I'm not away traveling, looking at trips online, imagining I am on them, having my excitement level go through the roof, realize I'm dreaming, getting frustrated that I'm not traveling. And so the pattern continues. Yes, these are the tales of a travel junkie.

Now at the moment I seem to be full-blown in the middle of the cycle where I am imagining myself on some of these trips. Since this travel addiction has me here, I figure I'll just go ahead and take you all down with me and share some trips out there that have piqued my interest. Warning: You may read about these trips and in turn become frustrated like me that you're not there. This is my attempt to warn you.... hence removing any responsibility I may have for said travel fantasy behavioral swing...

- Machu Picchu Mountain Lodges Trek; Wildland Adventures
- Hidden Monasteries of Tibet; Wilderness Travel
- Namibia Explorer; Ker & Downy
- Passage to Indochine; Asia Transpacific
- Futaleufu River Rafting; Bio Bio Expeditions Read more...

Top Ten Archaeological Trips

By now you all know how much I love archaeology, ancient ruins, and the destinations in this world that are home to these magnificent places. Several years back I made my own top ten list of these destinations and promised myself that I'd do everything in my power to visit them. Several of these sites I have already visited, several more are scheduled, and a few more I hope to see later in life. I thought it would be interesting to list my top ten list with my thoughts on each. Obviously there are hundreds of worthy candidates, and I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts on any sites they think should be put into the list. So without further adieu, here is my dream list:

1. The Pyramids, Egypt: The Pyramids of course are probably the most well-known site in the world. And really, this entry should just say "Egypt." The Pyramids are incredible, but you also have to include Luxor, The Valley of the Kings/Queens, Memphis, The Sphinx and Abu Simbel. This is a check-mark for me as I have been to Egypt (and am dying to go back).
2. Petra, Jordan: In terms of "take-your-breath-away" rankings, this may be #1. For those of you that aren't familiar with this place, it's in Southern Jordan and consists of an entire city carved out of rock. There is some debate around when this city was built, but what is known is it belonged to the ancient Nabataeans. Most well-known is the treasury as you exit the siq (was profiled in Indian Jones and the Last Crusade), but fewer people realize that the treasury is just one of a hundred different parts of the city. I think the most spectacular place is the Monastery at Petra (you have to climb over 800 carved stairs up the canyon to get there). I have also had the good fortune of exploring this site as well.
3. The Colosseum, Rome: I think everyone is familiar with the Colosseum; an amazing feat of construction in the old city area of Rome. I was able to visit this site in college on a 3-month backpack trip around Europe.
4. Angkor Wat, Cambodia: Wow. I think of all the places I have been, this may have been the most incredible overall. This site is in the jungles of Cambodia and is as immense a complex as I have ever seen (you really need no fewer than three days here). First built in the 12th century, this fabled lost city is an architectural masterpiece combining Hindu and Buddhist influences.
5. Machu Picchu, Peru: Nestled in a natural setting on the eastern slopes of the Andes lies Machu Picchu, the Incan Empire's defining piece of architecture. The complex was built around 1450, and not re-discovered until the early 1900s. I have not been to this site yet, but promised to see it for the first time with my sister, so hopefully I can make that happen soon.
6. Mayan Ruins of Central America: I grouped these Mayan sites together because there are so many I'm not sure I can separate them. That said, the most incredible examples are Tikal in Guatemala, Copan in Honduras, and Chichen Itza in Southern Mexico. The Mayans are known for their elaborate and highly decorated ceremonial architecture, temple-pyramids, palaces and observatories (all built without metal tools). This massive civilization lived from 2600BC - 300AD. I am planning to see both Tikal and Copan in August.
7. Great Wall, China: Built and maintained from the 6th century BC until nearly the 16th century AD, this construction is over 4000 miles long and at its height was manned by over a million men. This construction (along with possibly the Pyramids) is my leading candidate for the most spectacular accomplishment in all of history to present-day. The sheer size of the Wall is almost not comprehensible. I have not yet been to the Wall, but will someday plan to visit the Mutianyu Great Wall sections and the North Pass of Juyonggua.
8. Old City Jerusalem, Israel: The Old City of Jerusalem only covers one square kilometer, but packs more history into its space than perhaps any other place in the world. In addition to it being the historical epicenter of the three major religions, the number of archaeological sites are almost too many to list: The Western Wall, Temple Mount, Holy Sepulchre, Dome of the Rock, and The Cardo ... just to name a few. I spent some time here a few years back and feel like I barely scratched the surface.
9. Teotihuacán, Mexico: This often forgotten site can be summed up in one fact: At it's height in the 1st century AD it was larger than any city of the same era in Europe.... including Rome. I have not yet been here, and haven't planned a trip yet to do so.... Anyone want to come with me?
10. Mesa Verde, Colorado: This is the wild-card of the group, but if you've been here you'll know why I've included it. Mesa Verde was built by the Old Pueblo people (Anasazi's) that thrived in this region from 600AD-1300AD before mysteriously disappearing. The most well-known complex here is the Cliff Palace: A multi-story apartment complex built into a 325-footlong, 90-foot-deep, 65-foot-high cliff. The building had 200 rooms and 23 underground ceremonial rooms (kivas) used for social and religious rituals. There are 400 other cliff dwellings in the National Park as well. I climbed up into this site as a kid and it alone sparked my lifelong fascination with lost cities and archaeology. Read more...

A Belizean Bus

I have this very vivid memory from when I was a kid. I was on a bus with my brother and parents in Belize and even at eight I remember thinking, oh good God. The bus was at least 20 year old and there was masking tape holding on one of the headlights and a big crack in the front windshield. Inside were mostly locals traveling with baskets, chickens, I think I even remember a goat. The bus was so packed full of people and their goods I had to sit on my dad's lap and I remember being too close to a man standing with his butt in my face. To top off this little adventure, during the trip a giant basket fell on my head from its insecure position above me.

The image of my family and I on this trip came rushing back to me today as I read this headline "American Airlines plans to charge its customers for all checked luggage". Now, I want to say that I don't blame the airlines for taking necessary steps to try and save themselves from bankruptcy. Yes, I miss my mid-flight meal and hate having to buy a $12 dollar sandwich, but I can at least understand. However, this new measure makes me more than skeptical. What do they think people are going to do? People are going to attempt to bring everything they can on the plane with them. Now, they might not let on a goat, but I bet planes are going to start looking more like that Belizean bus.

I don't know that I would stop flying American after this announcement, but it will certainly give me pause. I think what is hard for most of us to stomach is having all our amenities taken away from us that we have gotten accustom to. Personally, I would rather see a slight rate hike than be hit in the head with a piece of luggage falling from the overhead compartments. As someone who has had this happen, it is not pleasant. Read more...

Southeast Asia - The New Backpacking Scene?

If you're like me and had the good fortune of spending some time in college "backpacking" through foreign countries, chances are you traveled through Europe. It made sense as well: Europe was the "it" destination with easy train travel from country to country, mostly inexpensive locations to visit, and a strong dollar to lean on. It used to be that a flight from just about anywhere in the States to Paris or London was no more than $500, a three-month Eurail pass could be purchased for close to $750, and places like the Czech Republic could be navigated for no more than $25 a day. Oh, the good ol' days.... With the depreciation of the dollar against the Pound and Euro, the rising gas prices, and the inflation of goods in Europe, those days are long gone. Nowadays a flight will run you closer to $800, a Eurail pass $1500-$2600 (depending on age), and our old cheap cities like Prague are closer inline to a Paris. Enter Southeast Asia: The new destination for backpackers looking for the same adventure and getaway we were once able to find in Europe.

One could argue that SE Asia is really a "new old" as Lonely Planet, a guidebook targeting backpackers and low-budget travelers, wrote its original volume (Across Asia on the Cheap) targeting the area. SE Asia has long been a mecca for backpackers from around the world, but is just now stepping out of the shadow of Europe as SE Asia can now boast the same benefits Europe used to be able to offer: Great internal transportation on the cheap, unlimited adventure, and a cheap place to vacation.

To discuss the area a bit, SE Asia's backpacking circuit is predominately Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. After those Golden Four come the Indonesian Archipelago, Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei. A few points to highlight:

- While the flight over there may cost you a bit of money, once there you can live for $15-$25/day in most spots.
- Unlike Europe, SE Asia does not have the same network of trains. While overnight trains in Thailand are quite nice, in most places the trains are quite dilapidated. What Asia lacks in trains though, it more than makes up in budget airfare options. Airlines like One-Two-Go, Thai Air, Tiger Airways, Pacific Airlines, Nok Air etc. offer flights as cheap or cheaper than any type of train transportation in Europe. Having done it myself, it is not difficult to show up at an airport and buy a seat on a budget airline the day of for $100 or less.
- Contrary to popular belief, crossing borders in this area is not all that difficult (with the right visas). There are a variety of trains, buses, taxis and ferries that shuttle across most of the region's international borders.
- The food in SE Asia is exotic and delicious and the region boasts some of the best street food in the world for less than 50 cents.
- SE Asia is home to just about anything you'd like to see: Gorgeous beaches, fascinating history and archaeology, unexplored forests, river travel, culture beyond your wildest dreams, wildlife, and big city nightlife.
- The hostel properties are on the rise in the area, and cheap accommodations are never far away with a little research and preparation.
- While I'd always recommend to check the State Department's country advisories before traveling, SE Asia is really quite safe. With the exception of a few places in the Philippines, and the very southern tip of Thailand, the area is great for travel. That said, researching your route is very important in this part of the world as you shouldn't be veering off the beaten path without guides or locals. Read more...

Exploring Earth

The other night I was watching a special on the fateful 1996 Everest season chronicled by Krakauer in his book Into Thin Air that took (among others) the lives of famed guides Rob Hall and Scott Fischer. For those of you that don't know the story, it is one of the most heart-wrenching modern tales of survival and adventure ever written. I mention this because for those of you that know me you'll know I have three vices: coffee, good food, and an obsession for adventure tales. Anything that is remotely related to discovery, borderline delusional adventure activities, or the capacity for the human body to survive near-death physical efforts, has my interest piqued. Anyhow, the show got me thinking about two things: The greatest adventure/exploration stories ever, and what (if any) modern day adventures are left?

To start, here is a list of what I consider to be six of the most incredible/fascinating adventure stories ever recorded:
1. Everest: The 1996 expedition, the Hillary/Irvine fateful attempt in 1924, and Messner's ascent alone and without oxygen in 1980
2. Lewis and Clark's exploration of the Western United States (and/or the trappers detailed in Give Your Heart to the Hawks)
3. Shackleton's odyssey in the Antarctic
4. Sir John Franklin's lost expedition to the Northwest Passage in 1845
5. The sinking of the whale-ship Essex in 1820, and the resulting survival story
6. The 14th century Moroccan wanderer Battúta's adventures as chronicaled in Travels

As for the last great unknowns and unexplored, here are my thoughts:
1. Everest still remains
2. The sub-glacial terrain of Antarctica (and sea life off the coast, see here)
3. The ocean floor (only 1% mapped)
4. The Northern Triangle Subtropical Forests of Myanmar
5. Regions of the central mountains of New Guinea
6. Parts of the Amazon (upper Orenoco)
7. The Greenland ice cap
8. The table mountains of southern Venezuela
9. Northwest Siberia
Read more...